JEWEL BEARINGS!

 WEEK 86

Willy, Yuriy, Alex, Michael

Origin : Singapore, Canada, Taiwan, Malaysia 

Age: n. a.

Watchmaking class: Technician & Fullskill 

Current mood: Current emoji: Day by day, task intricacy increases. This week we had most fancy and complex topic by far: gear train and bushing. All sample movements, we have to work on, must be assessed for condition of gear distribution and end shake aspects. All possible malfunctions (broken or incorrectly installed  jewels) replaced or fixed. End shake of all train elements should be set in right progression up to nominal. It took great amount efforts and time of each student. Although it was very satisfying, when in end of the week you can feel a right 0.01mm end shake by hands without microscope!

We are ready for exam. Aren't we? :o)

Pierre Aubert

Origin :Toulouse, France.

Age : 24

Watchmaking class: Fullskill

Current mood: It was time to put my cutters to the test! I made a test piece before I milled on the actual piece. I wanted to see how well they were cutting and measure the potential flex in order to gauge the real travel I’d have to make on the real piece. I have to say I didn’t want to make a mistake on the real barrel bridge as it is the most time consuming bridge to make!

And I am happy to say that machining the recesses went very smoothly! It cut like butter. I then put the winding and setting mechanism in the watch and tested it with the barrel bridge on. It worked like a charm :) No more energy, it’s the end of the week. Time to rest. Have a good weekend everyone! See you next week!

Name: Markus McDonald.
Origin: Stockholm, Sweden. 
Course: 2 years full skill course.
Current mode: This week I continued to tackle the hairspring module continuing with the assembling and adjusting and finishing with the poising of the balance. 

Out of the steps so far I have found the poising the most complicated so far as in theory it doesn’t vary much from wheel flattening however what makes it challenging is how it is far more abstract as the poising is incredibly required much more analysis but as in everything it is highly doable.

In conclusion the module is coming along well and with everything it is super rewarding.

STEP 1: JEWELS! (TECHNICIAN COURSE)

Different types of antique natural and synthetic functional jewel bearings.

Horia and Seitz jeweling tools with various pushers and anvils, the more the merrier! 

STEP 2: STATIC POISING OF THE BALANCE! (MARKUS)

Markus practicing static poising of a balance.

STEP 3: TEA CEREMONY! (MICHAEL)

Michael preparing his tea at break time.

Looking delicious!

STEP 4: MILLING! (PIERRE)

Pierre milling the sliding and winding pinion recesses to the barrel bridge with his own made cutters!

HENRIK's WORDS:

This week switched to a bit slower pace, probably due to the new subjects requiring more thinking, the technician course students learn about jewel bearings in movements and the importance of having clearance, good division and correct end-shake and side-shake for small and thin movements up to pocket watch size, obviously they also had to learn how to correctly use jeweling tools to be able to correct the faults. Markus also learn something new and exciting, the static posing of the balance. Pierre could use the cutters he made last week which was nice to see. All in all, a very pleasant week. Have a great weekend everyone! 

TRANSMISSION & THE LEGACY!

 WEEK 85

Willy, Yuriy, Alex, Michael

Origin : Singapore, Canada, Taiwan, Malaysia 

Age: n. a.

Watchmaking class: Technician & Fullskill 

Current mood: Another fun week working with barrels and mainsprings. Getting better with adjusting side shake and end shake. Towards end of the week started doing Flatness Check for the wheels... oh my patience i need to be. Slow is smooth,  smooth is fast. 

Pierre Aubert

Origin :Toulouse, France.

Age : 24

Watchmaking class: Fullskill

Current mood: Very interesting week: I’ve had to make specific cutters before I can mill the sliding and winding pinions’ recesses. It’s the first time I have had to do something like this and I really enjoyed it. It’s getting cold, we’ve had a tiny bit of snow. I am hoping for a lot more in the upcoming weeks. Have a great weekend everyone! See you next week.

Name: Markus McDonald.
Origin: Stockholm, Sweden. 
Course: 2 years full skill course.
Current mode: This week I both continued my caliber work and started with the hairspring module specifically a mix of theory and practical such as disassemble and reassembly. 

This was a nice combination and change of pace.

In conclusion this was a solid week

STEP 1: WHEELS & PINIONS! (TECHNICIAN COURSE)

Upon inspection of these wheels from one of Yuriy's vintage Zodiac watches, we can see the pivot with its shoulder for the above wheel is worn, and for the wheel below it has been shaped as a reversed umbrella, most likely to compensate for another error which we will find out later when learning about divisions, side-shakes, end-shakes and clearances of the gear train.

For this wheel, a guide is used to find the spot which is out of flatness, then marked and corrected at that spot.

The wheel is then placed between two anvils with holes in the Horia jeweling tool that would isolate the pinion from the wheel, and near the ink mark, corrected with wood to make it flat again. 

STEP 2: MAKING THREADS IN THE LATHE! (YURIY)

Above making the thread, below the thread.

It was for this tool the thread was made, Yuriy also learn how to turn long tapers as well as experimenting with spotting on the base of the tool, looks cool!

STEP 3: MAKING CUTTERS! (PIERRE)

Designing the cutters.

Setting up the lathe for making the cutters.

After milling and turning the cutter.

Below; hardening the cutter.

Below; Tempering the cutter.

Below cutters ready to mill:

HENRIK's WORDS:

The Technician course feels as if it has reached warp speed now 😊 Most of the barrels from last week have already been properly serviced so we started to have a look at the transmission unit, specifically the wheels and pinions from the centre or great wheel all the way to the escape pinion. Pierre keeps on progressing well with his school watch and Markus started a new course; the balance and hairspring course, learning how to restore watches with a broken balance staff, including disassembly of balance complete with extraction of broken balance staff practicing different techniques, as well as how to rivet back a new balance staff and attach the double roller including all the necessary checks as well as truing the balance in the flat. The school also had the good fortune to be passed on a legacy from a good friend of the school who passed away recently, his wish was to pass on his legacy to the school so that his watchmaking tools can continue to be used in classical watchmaking for the next generation watchmakers and technicians. Such a powerful gesture will never be forgotten! Have a great weekend everyone!

STEP 4: THE LEGACY! (KHWCC)

ENERGY ACCUMULATOR!

  WEEK 84

Willy, Yuriy, Alex, Michael

Origin : Singapore, Canada, Taiwan, Malaysia 

Age: n. a.

Watchmaking class: Technician & Fullskill 

Current mood: A very busy and interesting week for all of us. We were Introduced to the theory of the barrel and mainspring. Henrik taught us how to dissembled and assemble the barrel and fully service the barrel including checking the side shake, end shake, freedom of the barrel, hand wind the mainsprings or the more sophisticated way by using the winding tool as well. We have to oil the arbor and mainspring before closing the cover. Also put breaking grease for automatics. Last but not least also check for the power reserve as well! Looking forward to next week! Have a good weekend everyone!

Pierre Aubert

Origin :Toulouse, France.

Age : 24

Watchmaking class: Fullskill

Current mood: Now onto making the last functional sections of the barrel! The first one is to make the recess for the sliding pinion and winding pinion. Part of it includes two steps under the barrel bridge to provide clearance for the winding stem as well as the shoulder of the setting lever screw. In fact, the bridge wouldn’t go down without the latter.

In that regard I first designed the recesses and drew the steps accordingly before scribing these areas on the jigborer. I then went and milled these two steps at their respective height. Next: milling the recesses.
It’s exciting to see this barrel bridge nearing completion..! Not yet there but enjoying the process! Don’t want to think about the future, I’d rather be focused on these present tasks. Anyway, have a great weekend everyone. See you next week.
PS: Getting cold here, I quite like it. I hope we’ll get snow this year..!

Name: Markus McDonald.
Origin: Stockholm, Sweden. 
Course: 2 years full skill course.
Current mode: This is week was spent working on various projects and finishing parts of the movements in preparation for next week being the start of the hairspring. For the balance and escape wheel section it was a lot of fun getting to further expand my escapement knowledge and theory.

In conclusion working on this segment was a great experience and I am looking forward to starting the new module.

STEP 1: ZODIAC! (YURIY)

Yuriy brought one amazing Zodiac watch with him that he will later service. Notice the blue jewels!

STEP 2: ENERGY ACCUMULATOR! (TECHNICIAN COURSE)

We also had a look at some very old energy accumulator systems, here is an old 8 day barrel.

Sometimes they explode! This one was even bound up by iron wire.

Or should we...

Special shape mainspring!

Fusée and the chain!

Type of flying barrel pivoted at one end only.

STEP 3: BARREL CLOSING TOOL! (TECHNICIANS)

Modern barrel and mainspring with student own made barrel closing tool! (black).

HENRIK's WORDS:

 

This week was very fast! The Technicians learn to service the energy accumulator of the mechanical watch called the barrel and mainspring, this went very well, they learn for example the quality control of the relevant components, side-shake and end-shakes, installation by hand and with professional tools, cleaning and lubrication. Yuriy also learn the basics of turning with the Schaublin 70, ending the week with his own made barrel closing tool. I was completely busy with giving demonstrations, theory lessons and checking student work and got no time for anything special, except for having a great talk with Jason at AWCI, we are going to collaborate on something exciting regarding watchmaking education, most likely around January and February next year, this may be interesting for watchmakers all around the world! I will of course notify when we get closer to the date. Have a great weekend everyone!

NEW TECHNICIAN & NEW TECHNIC

 WEEK 83

Willy, Yuriy, Alex, Michael

Origin : Singapore, Canada, Taiwan, Malaysia 

Age: n. a.

Watchmaking class: Technician & Fullskill 

Current mood: Greetings lovely people, Alex here, we have just started the technicians course. I will be joining Michael, Willy and Yuriy for this new chapter. And that also include the weekly blog. From this week forward, instead of presenting the blog individually, we will go on a rotation and make a combined post. It is a very exciting time!! Will tell you more next week. See ya~~~

Pierre Aubert

Origin :Toulouse, France.

Age : 24

Watchmaking class: Fullskill

Current mood: Getting real! I’ve turned all my recesses and steps for my school watch bridges. I’ve decided to make some grooves for the ratchet recess in order to reduce friction. Those are not needed for the crown wheel as the post of the crown wheel will be static. I tried to make them very three dimensional and hope they will look nice :) Next: The recesses for the sliding and winding pinions! But first, let’s rest! Have a great weekend everyone!

Name: Markus McDonald.
Origin: Stockholm, Sweden. 
Course: 2 years full skill course.
Current mode:This week I continued my work on the movements alongside my trial exams which built up to my main exam.

These exams went very well passing the trials and improving some details until the main exam that I had today. 

This exam went very well as I was able to maintain the same pacing as the previous trial exam whilst improving the adjustments and small details from step by step.

In conclusion this week was intense but necessary as I was able to efficiently build up to my exam which went well.

STEP 1: THE BOOK! (YURIY)

Thank you Yuriy!

STEP 2: BASICS! (TECHNICIAN COURSE)

Winding and setting mechanism aka key-less works. Above winding mode, below setting mode.

Practicing disassembly, cleaning, lubrication and assembly of shock absorbers.

Disassembled shock absorbers.

Model to study the function of the shock absorber. 

STEP 3: SCHOOL WATCH! (PIERRE)

Pierre finished his recesses, above a graver he made for this purpose.

STEP 4: DRILLING & TAPPING! (YURIY)

Indeed very nice result!

The tap he used to do the internal thread.

HENRIK's WORDS:

This week was very efficient, Yuriy from Canada arrived and started the technician course, He also donated a book about Zodiac watches that he wrote, Thank you very much Yuriy for this beautiful gift! This book is a great addition to our library as we have no book about Zodiac watches, and this one will certainly serve as a great help when researching about Zodiac watches. Markus made two more Escapement practice exams and also took the real one. The technicians learn about the concept of the watch, screwdrivers, tweezers, shock absorbers, assembly and disassembly of movements as well as lubrication of the winding and setting mechanism. Pierre was working on his school watch and so far, progressing in a stable way! I finally got the look I was looking for! I was experimenting with an alternative finish on metal that I intend to apply on certain areas of the movement, I was looking for a surface that looks more organic or natural instead of industrial or static, and it must also be rather easy to restore when needed without having to remove too much material. Looking closely on the brass surface that I did the experiment on; in some angles for me it appears as balls floating in dark water and in another angle, it appears as the surface is very organic or something boiling, extremely happy with the result and will certainly apply it in some interesting areas of the movement from now on. Have a great weekend everyone! 

STEP 5: SURFACE! (HENRIK)

This is the same surface just a different angle at 80X magnification.